Chapter Two: Magnetic Road

”…men’s bodies become feverish, they lose colour, and are attacked with headache and vomiting: even the asses and cattle being all in like condition.”

– Chinese traveler in 35 B.C. about High Altitude Illness

Read Chapter One: Khardung La Challenge: A Runner’s Journey

Read Chapter Three: Crossing the Finish Line: My Khardung La Challenge Experience

Leh’d

Though adequately mileaged, I completed a pre-(Leh) induction Half Marathon on 14^th August 2024. This was important since I would not be doing much of the training for next few days due to acclimatization. I was airborne on the Independence eve from Amritsar to Delhi and further to my ultimate destination, Leh. The post HM hangover was followed by a significant mid night layover at Delhi. Then the early morning departure ensured I was fully exhausted, and sleep deprived as I boarded the flight. I finally landed at Leh airport at the break of the dawn on 16 Aug 2024.

Altitude had turned higher and the air had turned pure, rarified, and dry. The temperatures had turned colder, skies had turned cloudy, and the terrain had turned sandy. Suffice to say the changes had impounded my sleep deprived mind and physically fatigued body. My brain could not choose between the choices of enjoying the change or recouping itself for a better feel later.

I chose to hydrate, eat, and doze off for an uninterrupted siesta. I woke up and repeated the same process until I found myself in a comfortable zone the next day.

Focus gets clearer

Leh (11,480 ft/3500 m) was not new to me and the same was the case with High Altitude. Acclimatization was going to be the most crucial factor to kick start the final phase of my training. It had to be supported with adequate hydration, medical supervision and an enhanced protein and fiber intake. The plan involved gradually increasing workout sessions. Equal focus was given to strengthening, mobility, Yogasans and Pranayam in the rarified atmospheric conditions. The biggest advantage with me was a clear 20-day window before the event and my stay with Chandan, my dearest course mate with a golden heart and an even spacious house. His house had all the basic amenities and an amazing kitchen facility. I could not have asked for a more conducive ecosystem. Indeed, I was LEH’D.

Training Gets HIGH (Quite Literally)            

The uninterrupted acclimatization rest of first two days, both in physical and mental terms, in mid of the divine silence of Leh was fully used for preparing the roadmap for the ensuing training sessions.

The days kicked off with early morning training sessions followed by nutrition and rest. The afternoons were dedicated to research and study for the event. The evenings would be dedicated to the exploration of town and catching up with near and dear ones. It was a matchless way of keeping physical and mental equilibrium.

The early morning acclimatization walk of 11 km on the third day, kicked off the routine ahead. The chilly weather precautions in terms of clothing, basic hydration and mid-route nutrition were a ritual now. The sight of a few local runners and the ones pooling in for event would add on to the motivation. Weather was mostly cloudy and overcast, humbled by breeze in the cold dessert. This next day was dedicated to the strength and mobility. Cut to the sixth day, it was the time to check my body’s response to the High Altitude medically. It was spot on and I was ready for full throttles!

I decided to undertake a divine journey to Pathar Sahib on 20^th Aug 2024. It is a revered gem located 25 km from the Leh town. The place has a Gurudwara. It is devoted to Guru Nanak Dev Ji. He marked his presence here in 1517-18 AD upon his onward journey to Punjab via Srinagar. I diligently worked out a pacing strategy and also planned my nutrition, and hydration. The 25 km route would offer a respectable elevation gain of 473 metres.

I left for the beautiful journey with a walking stick in my hand. It was necessary because the dog menace in the town was really unnerving. Sticking to my plan, I completed the journey, brisk walking my way through the beautiful views, amidst the encouragement from tourists, cyclists, runners and bikers. The entire journey took 3 hours and 50 minutes. I also did the mandatory height gain to Nanak Hill to capture the mesmerizing views of the ranges around.

I strongly recommend this as part of the training for all the aspirants as well. The divinity of the place and blessings of the almighty uplifted my spirits. The savory Langar delighted my senses. The encouragement from the visitors made me even more motivated, poised and confident. They had come from the various parts of the country and inquisitively asked me about the event. They all wished me from their hearts.

An important lesson learnt was that “the ability to brisk walk over longer distances is as important a training attribute, as is the ability to run during an Ultra Marathon”

It is worth mentioning that Leh, by now was bubbling with many participants of the event. They had started arriving to train for the KC and the SRU. The offshoot of summers and onset of winters had created a very conducive tourist environment too.

I would have a strong morning workout. Then I would rest, focus on nutrition and conduct research during the day. An afternoon nap would make me super-ready for the evening outing and exploration of Leh town and market.

Pleasantries were exchanged with warmth and nostalgia as the Bir Gang reunited in Leh with each runner participating in various events from a HM to KC. This was now more of a LEARNING & MOTIVATIONAL CONGLOMERATION.

Apart from the exploration, I utilized the evenings for some height gain. I included upslope walks leading to Leh Palace and monasteries. This often left me satiated. I reveled in the breathtaking views of the city from the top. It also left me hungry for loads of food to follow.

Mrs. Olive, a very charming and affectionate woman and a dear acquaintance from the past, who runs Brazil Café in the Leh Market and treated me with freshly baked cheesecakes, brownies, pastries, and coffee and blessed me with amazing wishes always.

I promised her that no matter what part of the day I finish my race and no matter how much tired I am, I will take a few seconds off and give a big shout out for her amazing cakes!

Half Route March

The Virtual WhatsApp Group had turned Physical now. Surajit Sir had gotten us all together for bonding and knowledge sharing sessions over cups of coffee and meals. It was great to meet new members like Nirbhay Rana Sir and Sudhir Daryan in person. Surajit Sir had come up with an amazing plan. All of us would attempt half the route of the event in near real time scenario, an excellent opportunity that would not be let gone off.

The team would move to North Pullu (4663M/15,300ft) on 24^th August 2024 and make a brief halt for  prep-up. The familiarization run would start at 2 AM from Khardong Village (3975M/13,041ft), the actual starting point of the event. Putting my heart, brain, and the research so far, I used the next two days for knitting and kitting myself and reached Sitharam Sir’s residence in Leh on 24^th August afternoon.

Warmly welcomed, he introduced me to Karan Sir, another fantabulous human being. Gotten together, we all started for North Pullu at around 4 PM traversing the turns that were to be negotiated on foot the final day. We took a customary break at Khardung La (5359M/17,582ft). It was the highest motorable pass till a few years ago. The altitude left us gasping, quite literally, for a photograph. We reached North Pullu by dusk. Clear on my plan and part of muscle memory by now, I had been on a hydration spree. An increase in altitude could be clearly felt accompanied by a steep fall in temperature and thinner air.

Surajit Sir mentored us with some ‘Golden Pointers’ and I lay them down word by word-

• Prepare and stick to your schedule, COME WHAT MAY!
• Cushion time of 1 hour at any given check point post the first one.
• Do not Panic and Stay focused.
• Use your Drop Bags effectively.
• 500 ml of water and approximately 40 g of carb every hour till K’Top.
• Increase water intake to 1 litre per hour after K’Top.
• Run/Walk in the ratio ¼ from Khardung to North Pullu.
• Brisk Walk from North Pullu to K’Top (Do not Run!)

An early dinner and we were in our beds to be woken up soon. Mountaineering experience came handy as I did a quick check of my hydration pack including nutrition. I brushed my teeth, layered up almost in start point attire and dozed off. Sudhir was my roomie and was visibly uncomfortable adjusting to the sudden shift of conditions. Three odd hours of sleep and we woke up to the chilling morning. Bowel Gods were kind and after a happy dump I joined the team duly kitted. We boarded the vehicles and left at 1.30 AM for Khardong. A few minutes of warm up, a mandatory banana and it was a GO.

Sticking to the strategy religiously and listening to the motivating words of Surajit Sir enroute (God! The man was running like hell and stopping enroute to motivate us and then moving ahead again), I finished the 32 km of route at Khardung La in 5 hours and 10 minutes with an elevation gain of 1,396 metres; drawing back a few very important lessons for the final day!

A mandatory click, a quick bite, necessary stretching, and we headed back to Leh! I was reasonably happy with my performance but I was sure that the remaining 40 km of the distance, forming a major chunk of the event, not going to be a cake walk.

The vehicle-based descent and a bumpy ride from South Pullu to Mendak Mod cautioned us. We realized that the run for almost 20 km was going to be a nightmare. This was due to the construction work of the road, the gravel, and boulders. The sun would shine above our heads, and our legs would be exhausted. Sitharam Sir purposefully showed us the last 5 km stretch. It turns from the Petrol Pump at entrance of Leh Town. It seemed to be the most taxing and never-ending part at that time, hopping from one street to another.

“Son, run this race for the BLUE CARPET. Embrace the HIGH ENERGY and experience the ELECTRIFYING FINISH. It will remain etched in your memory LIFE LONG!” Sitharam Sir said.

Let’s Meet and Greet: Bib Collection and Expo

Apart from the process, another fun part was the unique socializing opportunity with other participating cohorts on 27^th August 2024, at the Bib Collection and Expo at NDS Memorial Stadium, Leh. Pertinent to mention that the organizers were very strict with the norms of physical bib collection by the participants. It was a praiseworthy step to ensure a suitable acclimatization period and for timely addressing high altitude related health issues. Apt to say, what an amazingly organized event. The event had staff and volunteers to assist us with our bibs. They verified our technical details and handed us over the participation kits. There was also an expo, the selfie corners and most importantly the briefing on route and DROP BAGS. The event was nothing less than a pre-running fest. The WHO’S WHO of running fraternity attended it and I was in awe of the legends with whom I was going to share my journey.

The brief by volunteers included the details of all the diligently planned medical-aid stations and hydration points. The hydration points were generously placed at every 5 km from the start point. Khardung La and South Pullu were designated for the DROP OFF bags. These locations were co-located with the two major hydration and medical-aid stations. The two DROP OFF bags were of different colour. They needed to be stocked, tagged and deposited during the congregation before the race departure.

The kit had a variety of stuff suited to the race. It included a pair of compression thermals and a wind cheater. There was also a pair of arm sleeves, a sun cap and a balaclava. Still, a point to mention here was the variation in sizes. The sizes delivered were different from the ones submitted by the participants while registering. It was a sore point, that could have been avoided. The expo featured a variety of gears, energy gels and imprinting stalls. You could get your names featured on your running gear.

Verifying our details with the technical team, meeting and greeting each other, we finished our crazy yet customary selfies and photoshoots.

DROP OFF and KIT UP!!         

The first thing, NO MATTER WHAT, which one needs to do after Bib Collection is Kit segregation and preparation of DROP OFF bags. This major task, once completed, makes you free to enjoy the remaining period before the event. I mentioned the two together as both are complementary components, to be stitched diligently. A few practical tips for kitting and thus deciding your DROP OFF contents are underscored.

Khardong Village to Khardung La

• Starting in the freezing and pitch-dark conditions from Khardung La makes layering and illumination a vital aspect.
• Start with the innermost layers of a quick dry vest, succeeded by a fleece and topped by a wind cheater.
• A compression lower topped by a quick dry light short is just sufficient.
• A light balaclava topped by a well strapped light-weight LED head light does the needful. Test your headlight well in advance. Ensure the batteries last at least 2 to 3 hours of functioning period. Be practical and avoid carrying any spare batteries.
• A pair of good running shades duly tried earlier, is necessary. You might call me old school, but I used a strap to secure them well. I fixed them over my balaclava to avoid accessing delays later.
• Do not forget to wear a suitable pair of well-adjusted gloves. Avoid woolen and heavily stuffed ones to ensure free functioning of hands.
• A well-tried pair of socks, breathable and comfortable with suitable length up-to your ankles is recommended. A good hack is to tuck them with your lower to ensure due warmth, avoid any folds and minimizing chances of blisters.
• A basic stretchable Bandana around your neck is advisable. It protects your throat and chin area from the discomfort of chilling temperatures.
• Wear your well tried and tested shoes for the race. You will feel nothing less than a sports model, fully attired for a great start.
• Hydration pack is a necessity and not just a requirement. Ideally, you should carry a one-liter bladder with electrolyte. Two 500 ml soft flasks with water should be on either side. It should be stocked just as much to cater for your planned nutrition and may be your cell phone.

Khardung La to South Pullu

• 32 km and day lighted, atop K’top, the air continues to offer the chill factor. There is a major chunk of downhill run in the shadow of the mountains short of South Pullu.
• It would be advisable to partially de-layer or if possible, put on a fresh fleece while rolling down. Decide based on the weather conditions. Also refill your nutrition at this point.
• A spare pair of shoes and socks might come handy. This is useful if the snowfall or the slush due to an earlier episodes of snow wets the ones worn during the climb.
• The job of head light would be over, so the same must be taken off now.

South Pullu to Leh Market (Finish Point)

• Laid bare under the sun, all you need to do is ease up and de-layer (weather conditions applied).
• Change into a comfortable quick dry T-shirt and a cap.
• Wear your arm-sleeves, brace yourself and SHOOT.

Keep in mind the above to prepare your DROP OFF bags well. Mark them well with given labels and preferably make them distinct (as per your ingenuity) to be readily located. The volunteers though, make sure that they are well placed to be picked up on the spot.              

Penultimate Blessing

With clearly 11 days to go for the event post Khardung La route recce, a serious tapering regimen was to be adopted. Two important places were still in the bucket list: the Leh Stadium and the Shanti Stupas. I stuck religiously to yoga and strength training. On 28^th August 24, I ventured to the Leh stadium for an easy paced 5 km run. Beautiful weather and amazing track of the stadium, combined with motivated athletes made my day. However, the dark clouds towards Khardung La added to my apprehensions. They would possibly bring snow in near future. This would definitely add to our miseries (quite literally), a thought, much loved by Roy Sir (well, real champs like it tough always).

The chill factor had started to increase, warranting me to throw my weight around on an early morning sojourn. I brisk walked to Singay Namgyal Chowk on 30^th August 24 with an overcast sky and fair amount of wind. The encounter with many runners enroute was refreshing and motivating with my eyes continuously observing the obscured Khardung La. The penultimate sojourn, brainchild of Sudhir, was to visit Shanti Stupas. This was something even I had kept for this special day. 31^st August 24. We did a walk-jog activity to Shanti Stupas. We ran literally out of breath on the upslope but were happy to find many runners on the top. They had come from all corners of the country. We had an amazing time chit chatting and sharing our experiences. We wished each other luck for the final event and looked forward to meeting each other on the race day. We ran down the same route.

GET (together), SET (yourself) and GO (to the final destination)

Some feelings are beyond expression and can conveniently be summed up as  ‘Overwhelming.’ The morning of 5^th September 2024 was one such moment when Chandan dropped me at NDS Memorial Stadium, Leh. Filled with runners of both SRU and KC, the venue radiated an overwhelming energy and enthusiasm. Buses had been earmarked and placed to take the participants to respective Start Points for an overnight halt. Volunteers inside the stadium were collecting our Drop Off bags and arranging them for transportation.

The participants from all corners of the world had now gathered and were seated for the final bean count and briefing by the race director. This session was quite exhaustive. We exchanged final wishes and took some customary clicks, mounted in our buses with a handful of nutritional kits issued after the briefing.

In a bus full of participants, I sat next to Panda sir. Nirbhay Sir and Sudhir were alongside. The journey was filled with banters and lighthearted conversations. Throughout the journey, I was continuously gazing at the route that we were taking. I realized that the same would be traversed backwards within less than next 24 hours on our feet. The weather had become colder in the last 11 days. Khardung La welcomed us with a traffic jam, mist and clouds. There were also stretches of remnants of snow due to the recent spurt.

As a matter of race protocol, no vehicles ply on the race route on final day. Only the authorized ones are allowed. This adds to the little joy of road entitlement for the runners. We took a leak break and some random clicks at Khardung La. Owing to the situation we had to take out our balaclavas and hand gloves, pre-empting the race conditions for the next day.

We debussed at North Pullu as planned and grabbed a quick lunch. The weather was kind, however, the chill factor had shot up considerably. This forced us to take refuge in the sleeping bags. Purposefully, I did not sleep and kept myself awake. I was engaged in conversation with Sudhir, my roommate (once again) and maintaining my hydration profile apart from chitchatting with Nirbhay Sir, who happened to be in a cozier room than us. Taking a few moments out in the later part of the day, we spent some time getting acclimatized and eagerly waited for a light dinner.

Sharp 8 PM and we called it a day. As a part of muscle memory now, I did a quick check of my gear. I slipped partly into the race attire and forced myself to sleep. Tossing and twisting I realized that there was no sign of sleep, as expected. I, though, forced my mind against all the thoughts crossing my mind. Sudhir, this time was visibly comfortable but in a comparable situation too.

Barely two hours of sleep and the alarm rang at 11:50 PM, tossing me out of the bed with excitement. Yes, I felt exactly the same way! Bowel Gods were kind and having  completed our morning rituals, we all gathered sharply at 1 AM. We prepared for our departure to the start point, located 17 km away, to be commuted by a bus now, an authorized move. We all exchanged greeting and wished each other luck as we boarded the bus. However, there was an eerie silence as we travelled those 17 km. Perhaps each one of us was having a continuous conversation with our own selves. We kept a calm façade to the others, even as we saw a few SRU participants enroute. What a sight and what a feel!

The location of the start point was all decked up and the efforts by the organizers were indicative of a fruitful planning. The ambience was lit up well. It was accentuated by the headlights of the runners and stalls providing cereal based breakfast, water and fruits. The energy and the vibe were matchless as we all gathered for one last time for a group photograph post our meal.

“All I could feel inside was a deep sense of joy and anticipation of attempting something I had thoroughly prepared for the past 1 year, especially, not being a natural but a trained runner.“

*******

Read Final Part: Crossing the Finish Line: My Khardung La Challenge Experience

Read Part 1: Khardung La Challenge: A Runner’s Journey